Dual chainring setup




















As well as having fewer unusable gear combinations, there also tends to be less gear overlap with a double chainring combo. Have a look at the triple drivechain in the gear charts; the granny ring only offers two gears that are lower than what you get in the middle ring.

Likewise, the big ring only provides two ratios that are higher than the top gear in the middle ring. Well the first and most obvious comeback for the triple-team is the wider gear spread. An XC double may offer sufficient top-end gearing but the lower gears will be compromised. The 26x36 first gear on a typical XC setup is roughly the same as your second-lowest 3x10 gear, so you only gain one easier ratio on a triple.

Is it worth going a triple to gain one lower gear? It all depends on your perspective but for me, part of the challenge is riding not walking. The thing that makes a triple good for some riders and some trails is the middle chainring. The tooth middle ring tends to be a sweet spot that gives you all the right gears for technical singletrack riding in hilly terrain.

In the same situation an XC double may have you hunting for an appropriate chainring, with the big ring being too hard for the ups and the smaller chainring too easy. However, the difference in weight between 2X and 3X is much less pronounced. As I specialise in bike travel, parts availability and compatibility is an important aspect of any drivetrain for me. Available spare parts usually go hand-in-hand with the bikes that shops sell.

While 8, 9, 10 and speed drivetrain users can mix-and-match between brands without much concern, speed SRAM uses oversized chain rollers to mate with their cassettes, and speed Shimano only really works well with Shimano, which limits your options a bit. There is a misconception that newer, narrower chains commonly found on 1X drivetrains are not as durable as previous drivetrains.

Zero Friction Cycling has done a lot of testing in this space and has found that speed chains are actually the most durable chains ever created, and not by a small margin either. This is due to advancements in materials engineering, metal hardening and coating treatments. More than 30 chains have been tested by Adam on a converted smart trainer w resistance, 90RPM with lubrication and contamination controlled.

The test is stopped when the chain reaches 0. High-quality speed chains are lasting to km in this test, with equivalent speed chains running closer to km. For 8, 9 and 10 speed chains, the accelerated wear starts at 0. You can reduce chain wear by riding in dry environments, by keeping your chain super clean and by using a wax lubricant. According to Zero Friction Cycling, you should get three chains to one cassette, and as many as six chains to your chainrings.

By knowing when a chain will get to 0. MTB derailleur. Do the limit screws allow adjustment to the range of motion that you require? If so, you might be OK, but it really depends on the number of teeth on your derailleur.

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Linked 3. Bike Perfect. Included in this guide: 1. RaceFace Cinch Direct Mount. Specifications Sizes: T. Reasons to avoid - Not quite as stiff as some options - Price. Black by absoluteBlack. Reasons to avoid - Oval shape not for everyone. Wolf Tooth Drop Stop. Specifications Sizes: t. Reasons to avoid - None. Shimano SLX Reasons to avoid - Heavy. Hope Retainer Ring. Specifications Sizes: Reasons to avoid - Can be difficult to find depending on where you live.

MRP Wave Ring. Reasons to avoid - Slightly lower quality alloy than others. Renthal 1XR. Reasons to avoid - Must have an accurate chain length. Price: EU Reasons to avoid - Expensive compared to other options - Check compatibility with your cranks. OneUp Switch. Best for the XC racer who is looking to regularly change gearing based on the weekend's course.

Reasons to avoid - True customizability held back by derailleur and chain length.



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