Cesspool installation guide




















InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. This article explains what a cesspool is, gives important safety and maintenance advice for cesspool systems, and defines the criteria for cesspool failure. We also provide critical safety warnings concerning cesspool systems as with some older and especially site-built cesspools there is a risk of dangerous collapse or cave-ins.

What is a cesspool? A cesspool combines the septic treatment tank and absorption system into a single component. A cesspool is not a septic tank and does not work like one. In its most basic and traditional form a cesspool is a hole in the ground to receive sewage: the walls of the "hole" are lined with stone or concrete block or safer pre-cast concrete photo to form a masonry-lined pit into which sewage is discharged.

Solids sewage from the building remain in the pit, effluent is absorbed into soil below and at the sides of the cesspool. Solids settle to the bottom, floating grease and scum collect at the top, and liquid seeps into the ground, initially through the bottom and most of the time through the side of the cesspool.

Cesspools as a means to dispose of sewage have been around since the late 's at the beginning of the Renaissance. Before that people simply tossed their night soil into the street. While cesspools have been used for a long time, since the development of the more modern septic system tank and drain field cesspools have often used where there is limited physical space no room for a leach field , and perhaps where the soil absorption rate was high such as areas of gravel or sandy soils.

For most buildings and onsite waste disposal installations which use a "cesspool", you should consider the use of a cesspool as an obsolete, limited capacity system likely to need replacement, and involving significant cost. Some immediate concerns are stated next. Failure Criteria for Cesspools is given by this basic but widely-used definition of a failed cesspool that needs replacement:.

If the waste level is within 12" of the inlet pipe near the top of a cesspool the system is at end of life and needs to be replaced. In the U. A cesspool needs replacement if it meets any of these failure criteria. While a septic company may offer to pump, partially pump out, or agitate or aerate the bottom sludge in the cesspool in an effort to extend its life, these procedures are potentially very dangerous and at best will give only temporary relief.

Where a new cesspool of traditional sort is going to be installed you should at least use a concrete pre-cast model with a safe cover see photos at left and above. Fortunately there are alternative onsite wastewater disposal alternative designs which can handle limited or even zero-space sites, so a simple cesspool as a destination for blackwater is no longer the only choice for limited-space sites.

Watch out : cesspools are not legal for use as wastewater treatment and disposal systems. In some areas existing cesspools used for wastewater handling [no conventional cesspool adequately treats wastewater] may be "grandfathered" in and permitted to continue in use.

But home buyers purchasing a property served by a cesspool should keep in mind not only the limited function of such systems but the significant cost that will be faced when the system is no longer functional - because at that time the local authorities may require that a different, more effective wastewater treatment system be installed, such as a septic tank and drainfield.

And space limitations on a property can cause real trouble when the cesspool has to be abandoned. Cesspools are flatly declared "not legal for use as wastewater treatment and disposal systems" in other jurisdictions such as in the Alaska state sanitary code.

In summary about cesspool hazards : watch out for cave-ins, keep away: cesspools, particularly older site-built cesspools present a very high risk of collapse from an unsafe cover or following some types of service involving pumping, aeration, or hydro-jetting. Adults or children should not walk over or even near cesspools because of the risk of falling-in followed by collapse, a virtually certain cause of death. If the presence of a cesspool is known or suspected at a property its location should be roped off to prevent access and it should be investigated by a professional.

When laying out and excavating, remember to maintain a positive flow between the tank and the drain field. Place in most jurisdictions "inch-and-a-half washed drain rock" from a nearby gravel pit around the pipe. This is required to hold the pipe steady. See your local health requirements for the size of embedment needed and the size of gravel. The perforated pipe in a gravity drain field has no slope end to end and has capped ends.

Cover up the pipe and tank once you have a green tag from the health inspector. All areas depending on the rules of the local health department will require a special filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw or untreated building paper to cover the drain rock before backfilling.

Method 2. Install a pump chamber after the septic tank. The pump chamber or sometimes known as a pressure tank, or dosing tank contains the electric pump which is utilized to move the effluent from place to place, and eventually into the drain field for final disposal. The pump chamber contains the effluent pump and floats to pump out to the drain field at measured or timed intervals. This is a sealed system. The electrical installation will usually require a licensed electrician to satisfy state regulations.

In areas with high ground water, be aware that the pump chamber or additional ATUs may be mostly empty much of the time, and these tanks may have to be protected against flotation by the use of extra weight or other protective structures. The construction details including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines and other system parts such as the drain field and any additional ATUs must match the septic system plans as approved by the local county health department.

Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final approval and the system is activated. I had a tank installed and it is off level. How will this affect things, and should it be level? The tank does need to be level. It is hard to say what it will affect, not knowing which way it is off level. Yes No. Not Helpful 1 Helpful With a gravity flow type of tank, do I have to worry about tree roots growing into the drainage area?

It depends on the species of trees growing near or above your lateral lines. Some tree species have a tendency to grow roots into the lateral lines, clogging them. However, grass, weeds, and bushes rarely effect them since they are buried deep and are surrounded by a pocket of gravel to bleed away waste water.

Not Helpful 2 Helpful Most systems require 12" of rock. The perforated pipe should be suspended in the upper portion of the rock. Not Helpful 4 Helpful I have heard that brown or dead grass is preferable so that your field can breathe. Your field does have to breath. Green grass over your field means it's working fine. Your field can breath with green grass over it. No woody shrubs or trees should be planted over the leach field. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 5. Fifty feet minimum.

The law varies from state to state, but this is the most common distance. Not Helpful 15 Helpful Depends on how cold it gets. In northern U. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 8. It depends on whether or not you live in a region where the ground freezes.

Not Helpful 9 Helpful 9. A common tank is 1, gallons and will fill up relatively fast with regular use. The point is to hold and pre-treat solids as the liquid effluent flows out to the drain field.

A pump system could require water to prime the pump. Not Helpful 8 Helpful 8. My septic field pipe in the ground does not match up with the pipe on the tank. Can I use a 90 degree elbow on my septic tank? Long Island has a lot of drywell contractors to choose from when it comes to drywell installation. However, not all drywell companies have your best interests at heart.

Many Drywell Installation experts will overcharge you or simply work in slow motion. If you want to hire a Drywell installers who will be dependable, reliable, and charge you a reasonable price you should consider using our services. We consider our Drywell Installation experts to be some of the best in all of Long Island. We will go out of our way to provide you with drywell installation service you can depend on. We are eager to offer you high quality drywell installation and the best customer service at the cheapest prices around.

Commercial properties often have more storm water runoff per square footage due to the greater area of impervious surfaces such as parking lots, sidewalks, entryways and flat roofs compared to homes. Should a storm strike, ensure your commercial or municipal property is protected by an adequate storm drain system.

Our storm drain services include directing water to other areas such as swales or bioswales, retention basins or detention ponds and much more.

Septic repair service, septic line repair, septic tank, line and new tank and system installation are our specialty. Replacing your septic tank or system is an investment few people are ready to take on. Many times, your septic system needs a simple, affordable repair to return it back to tip-top shape.

Our skilled and certified technicians are trained to handle every septic, cesspool, soil absorption pit and trench systems.



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